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But if you're looking to get better at your cast there are a few things that you need to know about casting that could be hurting your distance and the loop that you're making on your back cast.
Here are 5 myths about fly casting that I learned from The Orvis Ultimate Book Of Fly Fishing.
1. The "10 And 2" Method
Yes, we've all seen A River Runs Through It and we love how the 10 and 2 method sounds. But when you actually use this method of casting the loops are not going to be optimal. Useable? Yes. But not the best. in order to get a tight loop from your rod your need have the fly rod travel in the straightest path possible from the starting point.
When the rod bends through the cast it needs to bend the tip as quickly as it can for a tight loop. When you use the 10 and 2 method you will get a semi-circular bend and the loop is going to be much more open than using a tighter cast.
Of course, this all going to depend on the distance you are trying to reach. But generally, you want to watch the tip of your rod bend to get a feel and shorten the casts from 10 and 2 to 11 and 1. Try it out and you will feel the difference in your casts.
2. More Wind Equals More Strength
Wind casting is the arch nemesis of the fly fisherman. Casting into the wind can be one of the most annoying aspects of going out onto the river. The natural motion is to make your loop wider to create more energy throughout the rod.
The problem with this is that the bigger your loop is the more likely that the wind is going to simply blow it right back at you. To combat casting into the wind you need to drive the rod toward a tighter loop.
Bring your rotating arm back a little so that it's closer to your shoulder. This is going to change the fly cast's angle and move the line closer to the water. This cuts down on the wind's ability to blow the line away.
3. A Knot Is A Knot
We're fly fisherman. We're in the business of knots. So when I hear somebody talking about how they can't get distance with their line and then I see them tying the wrong knots on their tippet and fly line
it all starts to click.
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I personally use a clinch knot for tippet fly line, but a buddy of mine uses a standard square knot and gets pretty good distance. Stay away from a blood knot!
4. The Size Of The Fly Doesn't Matter
Hey, we were all beginners at one point. Knowing what kinds of flies to use is a skill that is usually brushed upon during the first couple hours of fishing, but it can extend to a lifetime of learning.
Generally speaking, the bigger the fly, the harder it's going to be to cast. I fish with a lot of bass guys and I love watching them battle a bass popper onto the river. It takes time to learn how to cast big flies. Some people spend decades trying to figure it out while others seem to be able to do it the first day. When you're choosing your flies, remember that smaller will go further.
Giant clauser minnows and streamers will always land you in trouble. If you want more distance and less of a footprint on the water, go with a small nymph. If they're not hitting on that, change it out to an Adams.
If you don't know about matching hook size with leader or fly line weights, read our article here: Fly Rod Basics: Matching Fly Line Weights With Fly Hooks
5. Incorrect Form Doesn't Matter
Let's be honest, we don't always use the correct form when we're casting. There's not enough space on the web to get into the right form, but there are a few things that you can do to immediately improve your casts.
The first thing you want to remember is that your casting arm should be perpendicular to your shoulder. When you're casting remember to move your arm like you're hammering something into a wall. This is the best motion for loading (getting the right bend) in your rod. Keep your upper body straight.
Don't slouch when casting. If you're bent over, keep your arm parallel with the water's surface. Shy away from the "throwing a baseball" method.